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Spider Veloce from 1985 - 7 |
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Clic on the PICTURE for a 640*480 resolution |
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| * I started out in the rear, making the new pieces for the frame. This is .120 1"x1". * Then I welded them into place. * And then cleaned up the joints where they intersect. * Once that was done, I moved to the engine. In this case, I bolted the scatterproof bellhousing to the engine, then the transmission. It turns out that the bellhousing is too big - It just won't fit in the frame. I'll have to get an aluminum one. |
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| * Here's the engine and trans coming up on the lift. * The engine actually goes in nicely. In this picture you can see the stock double sump style pan I'll be using (stock for a 302 block). * And here's the wife helping - This was after I removed the bellhousing since it wasn't going to work. * The block itself fits very well in the chassis. For those wondering "Holy crap, that's really far back!", uh, Yes, that is correct The first two pistons are over the front axle. |
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| * The entire firewall will be moving back to this position (under the cowl). * Next I moved on to fitting the rear cross member. This member is critical because it will be 1 of only two (the other being under the tranny), so it must be strong. * Everything welded in. * I removed the jacks from the rear and tested my frame - Even with 200lbs of me jumping on it, the rear didn't budge. |
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| * Then I cut out the cross bracing that has been in the car since I started. * This is the result after the cut - The chassis hadn't moved! Doors etc all line up great with the new frame intact. Now that I've had the engine in, I can see where everything else is going to go. Weight-wise, it looks like I should be able to get the engine moved to the rear quite a bit. Considering that I am moving the seating position back as well, I have a lot of room to work with. And remember the neighbors I was telling everyone about? Here they are in my driveway today checking out the neighbors Porsche with a Corvette engine. |
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I was thinking about how to approach the front end. Since the factory cross-member was in a decent place, I got to thinking that maybe I just needed to cut everything out of the way and have a good look at it. I would need to do this anyway to fabricate the new front suspension so it seemed like the logical thing to do. Worst case would be that I didn't like what I found and cut the rest of the cross member out |
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| * I started by removing the V8 - I took this picture to give everyone an idea of what the oil pan looks like. * Next I moved to the front end. This is how bad it is. * ..... * In this picture you can see where the car had been "repaired" from a previous "accident". |
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| * With the front bumper removed, you can see that this car had seen better days. * I removed the inner fender wells, and anything else in the way up front. * Then I cut away the chin - I cut it below the seam line so that I could easily graft a new one on. * With the lower spoiler removed you can see how badly the left is twisted. |
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| * Then I removed the front suspension. It was at this point that I had to finish off the cross members inside before I did anymore cutting. Since I intended to completely cut everything out around the cross member, I would have to make sure things stayed put. * To start off with, I had to create the new members. |
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| * And then fit them. * And then weld them (MIG if anyone is wondering). * ..... * Here's a shot of the new finished cross members. When looking at this picture, remember that the firewall is coming back - The floor will be the top of the round tube, not the square tube. |
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| * Up front, I had to brace everything since I'd be removing the current structure that kept it in place. * I reused some of my previous bracing material and created 2 sections. * Of course, throughout this, I was planning my cut line (warning, humor ahead). * This picture shows that my new temporary brace pieces are straighter then what is in the car. |
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| * Then I created a leg that matched the angle of the lower brace. * Once that was done, and the front end was supported, it was time to start cutting (carnage ahead!!!!). * I won't bore you guys with tons of cutting pics, but it did take a while. * For those wondering how I'm expecting to save weight, take a close look at this picture. |
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| * With the suspension removed and the wheel well gone, there is all SORTS of room to work out my new front end. * And here's a mock up with the wheels finally in a semi-close position. * Engine bay after surgery. * This should give everyone a good idea of what I have to work with now - I think this is an EXCELLENT result!. |
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| * EXCELLENT result!. * If anyone can get through THOSE pictures and still doubt my commitment to making this thing handle, I'd be shocked I am currently working up the specs for the upper and lower arms. I will be making them myself As for the front cross-member, after it's cleaned up, I think it will be very usable! Also - Up front - I cut it where I did so that I could tie back into it straight from the frame. I'll be doing this soon so that the front isn't hanging in the breeze for long. Oh - And a word about the frame: It still isn't finished There are more pieces coming, it just isn't time yet. |
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It's been tough to get to this point - Although the pictures may not show it, I've been working hard on designing the front suspension and getting raw materials and parts together. I've also been studying a ton in order to make the very best suspension I can. To that end, I have spent a bunch of time designing the front end geometry. Here are some of the front end features: 1) The suspension will have 3" both directions for a total of 6". The total negative camber gain will be 4.5 degrees @ 3" 2) The top a-arm with be 7", and the lower 10" 3) Given the contraints I am working with, I am limited to the track dictated by the width of the body minus clearance when the wheels are turned. 4) I have designed in the lower at an angle in order to take advantage of rolling the tops of the wheels in early for clearance. 5) The roll center height changes very little between ride height and jounce. This should make for a steady feel. 6) Although the instant center changes a good bit, it never crosses centerline. I can only go so high with mount for the upper. 7) I'm designing in some anti dive (can't see it in the graphic, but I'll post a pic), but not too much - The car is going to ride slightly stiff anyway. 8) The graphic below illustrates the suspension. I have a full 1-1 drawing I'm working with. Here's a snap-shot of it minus some details - They're secret you know And By the way, I'm not finished with the design
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| * Here's what it looked like after cutting out the suspension but before any metal work. * Here is what was left from the stock cross member - About to be transformed. * After grinding for a while, the right was done.. |
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| * In this picture you can see what I have to work with. Probably the last 4-5" will come off to clear the coil-over shock that will be there. * ..... * ..... * Not complete, but much lighter. |
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| * I started out measuring for the new suspension - I needed a full scale drawing to play with all the variations - Here you can see my ulra high-tech tools. * This will give you an idea of how full this area is. * After much measuring, this is the final location of the front wheel (or close anyway). |
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| * I think it looks very clean like this - Can't wait to see it on the ground. I am currently waiting for 2 critical pieces before I can continue on the front - The conversion from strut to spindle peices I ordered, along with special ball-joints. I thought they'd be here Friday, but no dice. Once they get here, the front should progress quickly now that the rest of the homework has been done. |
